Libris Britannia 4

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.L:66 .XR:4 ANGLES.DOC Ver. 2.0 Copyright 1990, Robert W. Kascak 19 Laurel St., Trumbull, Ct., 06611-3919 Documentation file for "ANGLES.EXE" ver. 2.0 and related files Page 1 This disk is NOT "freeware" and it is NOT "public domain" It is a copyrighted software product developed and owned by ROBERT W. KASCAK, 19 LAUREL ST., TRUMBULL, CT., 06611. You may receive only a small comp- ensation for the cost of reproducing or distributing this product. The copyright notice and contents may not be altered and must remain as they appear in the software. None of the documentation may be reproduced by any means whatsoever. (C) You may make backup copies of this disk for your own use and you may offer copies to others for trial use only, subject to the limitations in the above paragraph. You may NOT make copies of any printed material supplied with or in the program or in the documentation. To support the developement of such programs and future updates, we would like you to help find others who would like this product for a contribution of at least $15.00 plus $2.00 for P/H for 5.25 or $16.00 plus $2.00 for P/H for 3.5 and your name and address with: Robert W. Kascak 19 Laurel St. Trumbull, Ct., 06611-3919 Registration entitles them to an updated disc which includes more drawings and improved directions. It also includes innovations and mod- ifications that can be made to the containers. On disc will be an ex- panded spread sheet template/program that can be used with LOTUS 123(tm), ASEASYAS(c), and others that use the same format. Disk will also contain the source code for the basic program. Also available are printed sheets, with directions for making multiple sided containers up to 24" in diameter and up to 22" deep. These are in sets of 9 pages according to the number of sides of the containers (ie: 5-6-8-10-12-16-18-20-24 + sides). The first set with directions and graphic printouts (Total of 18 pages) are $7.50 plus $2.00 P/H and each ad- ditional set ordered with it is $4.50 ppd. Single sets are $5.50 each ppd. Special: 5 sets with directions and graphic printouts on initial order for $24.00 plus $2.00 P/H. Page 2 GETTING STARTED: Boot up to dos. Type 'Graphics' (or the program you use for your printer graphics) Put ANGLES disk into default drive, turn on printer and type 'COPY ANGLES.DOC PRN' To run from DOS, type 'ANGLES' To run in BASIC, load your basic and type 'RUN"ANGLES From menu, select choice #4 When figure #1 is on the screen use 'shift print-screen' for hard copy of graphic Repeat with figures 2, 3, and 4 Save these for reference when using program DEFINITIONS: see Figure 1 A = Angle to set tilt of saw BD = Base diam. of container B = Bottom panel width c = code used in computations d = code used in computations H = Heigth of container (vert.) L = Length of panel at center line LE = Length of panel along edge M = Miter guage setting for side cut P = Pitch of slope (in. per ft.) s = number of sides S = Slope of container sides(deg.) T = Top panel width TD = Top diam. of container Figure 1(B) is the top view illustrating where the measurements are taken from on a container with an even number of sides. These measurements are taken from the outer edges both at the bottom and top of the flat panels. For containers with an odd number of sides, the point on one side is used for the measurements. In figure 1(D), you will note that the LARGER end is resting on the bench and is referred to as the bottom. The containers are positioned this way for construction and with reference to 'containers' and'panels'. although they will be turned over for use. What is referred to now as the bottom will be the open top of the finished bucket or container. Naturally, covers and roofs are used as constructed. In figure 1(A) and 1(C) the panel a-a from figure 1(D) is enlarged. Figure 1(A) shows the miter angle (M), the length (L), and the edge length (LE). The top measurement of the panel (T) is taken at the outside top edge of the panel. The measurement (B) is taken at the bottom outside edge of the panel. In figure 1(C), which is the bottom edge of the panel, you can see the bevel angle (A) measured from the outside surface of the cont- ainer which is the amount of table saw tilt. REMEMBER: THE MEASUREMENTS FOR THE PANELS AND THE CONTAINER ARE TAKEN WITH THE LARGER END DOWN. THIS IS THE WAY IT IS CONSTRUCTED. IT IS INVERTED AFTER COMPLETION. o A protracter head square and a 'T' bevel are necessities for accurately setting all of the angles. The fit of the joints is critical for good gluing surfaces. Page 3 o Cut the panels to length 'L' if they are being made with the grain running up and down, being sure the ends are EXACTLY PARALLEL. o Set the tilt table or the tilt arbor to 'A' degrees. Use a protracter head square to insure accuracy of angles. o Use a wooden extension, long enough to cut the panels on either side of the blade, clamped to the miter (cutoff) head. Set the miter head facing left of center, to a reading of 'M' degrees using the protractor head square. Place the OUTSIDE FACE of the panel down against the table with the TOP (narow end) of the panel against the miter guage extension. Make this cut using the left side of the blade. See figure 2(A). o Flip the panel end for end, such that the INSIDE FACE is on the table and the BOTTOM (wide end) of the panel is against the miter guage ex- tension. Use a stop clamped to the right side of the miter guage extension or on the rip fence, to make repeat cuts equal to the dimension 'B', see figure 2(B). Make the second cut on the right side of the blade, see figure 2(C). o If the grain is to run across the panels (ie: for a shallow type of container) AND you can use both sides of the stock, rip one piece of stock as wide as the panels are to be long 'L'. o Set the tilt table or tilt arbor to 'A' degrees. Use the protractor head square to insure accuracy of angles. Set up is the same as cutting a single panel. o Make the first cut on the left side of the blade, see figure 3(A). Flip the board over so the opposite edge is against the miter head extension and the opposite surface is against the table. Slide the end of the board against the stop set for measurement 'B', see figure 3(B). o Make the cut on the right side of the blade, see figure 3(C). The second cut on the first panel also makes the first cut for the next panel. Continue to flip the board and cut each panel with the end against the stop until all panels are cut. This system eliminates almost all waste. o To cut the rabbit for the smaller end, (which will end up as the bottom of the bucket or container) set the saw tilt to the slope 'S' of the container. Clamp on a rip fence extensioin to keep the panels upright, and rabbit the inside narrow end of each panel to the depth of the insert that will be used. The rabbit can be less than half the thickness of the panels. Use the right side of the blade for these. See figure 4(A). o For containers with a slope 'S' of less than approximately 15 degrees, assemble dry using many heavy rubber bands to hold it together while you check the fit. If you wish, you can mark each piece for reassembly and fit the end panel now (this will eventually be the bottom of the container). o On panels of less than 3/8 inch thick, a good grade of glue is all that holds the container together. When gluing, a handful of rubber bands serves as very efficient clamping. On containers with more than 15 degrees, make a jig or frame for holding the panels tightly in place until the glue has had time to dry. You may wish to use waterproof glue. Page 4 o If the panels are made of wood that is heavy enough,then dowels, splines, or biscuits can be used for strength. INNOVATIONS: o To make an oval container, cut two side panels with a bottom width 'B'and a top width 'T' larger than the others using the same length 'L' ,the same miter 'M' and the same bevel angle 'A'. The difference be- tween the width and length of the container will be whatever amount you added to the two side panels. o An 8,12,16,20,or 24 sided container could be made with handles on each end by making 2 of the panels a little longer 'L' and either cutting a finger slot in the top of each one or adding a handle on the outside. Width 'B'must be measured at distance 'L' from the top, the same as the other panels. see note * Figure 4(B) o Small feet could be added to the bottom by cutting flats on wooden balls similar to the ones used for door harps and fastening them to the four corners on the bottom after assembly. o Copper wire bands can be used on the outside for strength as well as decoration. Another way would be to flatten 3/16 or 1/4 inch copper tubing and use it for a band or two around the container. By filing away half of the tubing on opposite sides where it joins, it can be soldered almost invisibly. This is very effective when used on small buckets. o Shallow containers, covers and roofs can be made with a round or scalloped outer edge. see note * Figure 4(B) o Panels would be cut a little longer than 'L' (allowance must be made for the added length to maintain the top diameter if it is critical, see note **). Cut at a radius (less than 'L') on the wide end to make a scalloped edge on the container. see figure 4(B) * note: In these cases if you wish to make the outer edge into a circle; cut the miter angle and the bevel angle using the length of the edge 'LE' instead of 'L' as the center length of the panel, see note **, after cutting the miter and the bevel scribe an arc on each panel with a radius of 'LE'. When trimmed to this line and assembled, you should have a circle at the outer edge. see figure 4(B). ** Note: Make the panels with a slightly wider bottom width. Use dimension 'LE' for a trial layout and be sure the 'B' dimension at 'L' distance from the top of the panel is accurate at this line. see figure 4(B).